Life here
The land
Behind the mountains
That is what Trás-os-Montes means, and it was not meant kindly. This was the far side of Portugal: too high, too cold, too hard to reach.
Which is exactly why it survived. Villages of black schist, chestnut woods, Roman gold workings cut into the hills, and a river nobody imagined would be so wonderous.
Miguel Torga famously described the northern region of Trás-os-Montes as an "Enchanted Land" or "Wonderful Kingdom" (Um Reino Maravilhoso).
We too, find it to be an enchanted land, full of undiscovered or forgotten richness. We hear it in the whisper of the winds, at dawn or dusk when the sky shines pink. And when we sit in silence on a wood bench high up in the stones where the minerals release their stories, their advice, their wisdom.
Altitude
610 metres above sea level
Water
Our own well, a source stream and the Tinhela river runs the length of the land
Swimming
Wild river swimming all year 'round. Many spots to dive into; private bathing holes or the "swimming pool" where the river opens up to 50 meters long and deep-- over your head
Flora&Fauna
Green oak, chestnut and pine. Heather, lavender, rockrose and holly, with wild boar, otter, heron and Bonelli's eagle
Power
Off-grid. Solar powered for electricity and hot water, biomass to heat, woodstove sauna and sunlight through the windows
Nearest village
Tresminas — Roman gold-mining country, 4 km
Getting here
Porto airport, 1 h 30 by road.
Night sky
Bortle 2. The Milky Way casts a shadow in August
A day here
Shaped by the light, not the clock
What a day can look like version in July. Nothing is compulsory. The times drift with the season and nobody keeps score.
05:20
First light hits the far ridge. Doors are unlocked; no one minds who is up.
07:00
Take a mug of hot lemon water or our local herbal tea. We've got the good stuff for coffee drinkers too. Go sip outside.
08:30
Take a fast hike around the property; over stones, hedges and finally back to the path to the movement platform by the river. Immerse yourself in guided practice.
11:00
Bring back some fresh lettuce or strawberries for the chef after the movement class. Then meet everyone for a hearty brunch.
13:00
A nap in the hammock. Or lounge on a hot rock in the sun and slide into the cool river. Take time. Long, and slower than you are used to.
15:00
Nothing much; a book, dabbling in watercolor painting, maybe experience the silence. Then grab a warm cookie from the kitchen. Go for another swim?
17:00
Sauna. Then the river. Then the sauna again, and once more if you have found your nerve. Followed by a breathwork and meditation class at 18h.
19:00
Dinner at one long table, outside with candles, whatever the garden gave up that morning.
22:30
The valley goes properly dark. This is the part people remember. Look up.
Before you book
Honestly, it isn't for everyone
We would rather tell you now than have you arrive and find out.
Adults only
Guests are 16 and over. This is a quiet place and we intend to keep it that way.
No pets
There is wildlife here, and our own animals. We can recommend kennels near Vila Pouca.
Steep ground
The paths are granite and schist, sinuous and sometimes steep. We could not adapt this terrain for mobility access without ruining the thing that makes it worth coming to.
Signal
There is a highspeed connection in case needed. We suggest to lleave your phones with us. Your choice. But when you do, most people feel no need to scroll like before. And have begun the journey back to personal sovereignty.
Seasonal
Our high season is Easter to All Saints. But the low season holds surprises, do not neglect this fact.
Cold water
The Tinhela river is between 9 and 17 degrees, depending on the season.
